Install Wood Floor

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how do I use a reversing strip and do I have to install tar paper

It all depends on if you have a true wood floor, a laminate or a floating floor. Let's assume that you have a read wood floor that is tongue and grove.

1st, you need at least 3/4 plywood as a base - not pressboard, not chipboard, but plywood.

2nd, you need to cover this with some rosin paper. You could use tar paper if you wish, that is heavier. Rosin paper is preferred. Staple it down with a hammer tacker.

3rd) measure the width of the room measuring perpindicular to the joists. Wood floors run across joists, not with them. Find the center of the room and mark it.

4th) measure full board widths from (depends on what you have) from that center point to a wall and mark where your first full width board should go.

5th) use a chalk line to mark this entire line parallel with a wall and running across the joists. Walls are never straight, but you want the board joints to be.

6th) Measure the narrowest space between the line and the wall and subtract about a 1/4".

7th) Rip the Groove side off of a set of boards to the width that you measured in step 6. The width does not include the tongue.

8th) Nail through the tounge of the ripped strips at an angle and try to hit the joists. Rent a flooring nailer.

9th) complete the first partial width of boards and then start over iwth a full width set. Make sure that the ends are staggered so that the 2 rows do not have a board end within 1-2" of each other.

The only time you may need a spline is if you have to reverse your tongue to the other direction. A spline basically fits between 2 grooves to reverse the pattern.

I am getting ready to install a hardwood floor and have never done it before. I know the basics of how it is done. I am looking for a more detailed description that explains the little details like corners, room transitions and joints
Yes you can glue down a hardwood floor if you have the correct subfloor. I am about halfway throught the project now and it is quite easy. It is just very tedious.

The "Do it yourself" website has some information on this installation method. I recommend looking there since it is rather involved.

Good luck.

I'm trying to install Floating hardwood floors in a room, and I can't get them to snap together. When I put two pieces together, one piece sticks up a little, kind of like this __/ but not as severe. I have no clue what I'm doing wrong, I spent 6 hours working on the floor yesterday, and I've gotten nowhere. Someone please help!
I've tried putting in the flooring at every angle possible, it's not working. And my floors should be even, its a new house, I dont know why they wouldnt be
Tongue and groove system? yeah. And I've tried tapping in the floor with a hammer and wood block thing, not working.

you have to position it just right across the whole piece take two pieces from box and just and practice take a piece of flooring cut off two pieces four inches long go to kitchen table and put the two pieces together

I bought the material, and am installing the wood floor. Do I pass on the sales tax to the builder.

yes, unless you quoted a turn key job amount, and then you would absorb the tax as a cost of yours.

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I am considering installing a real hardwood floor in a small (half bath) because it is directly off a main hall where we will be puting hardwood. Installing the hardwood floor would result in raising the toilet about half an inch. Will this pose a problem? or can I get some kind of thicker wax ring and a set of longer floor bolts?????
You should NOT install more than one wax ring. You are asking for a problem in the future. Best case is having the toilet flange on TOP of the finish floor. Sometimes you can remove a flange and replace it correctly. If you cannot rework it and the space is greater than one wax ring you should use a “Flange Extender” see this link [it involve floor tile but the principles are the same]: http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=40603

I want to install the engeneered hardwood floor to my house. Should I choose the installation method with " glue down" or " floating"? Which one is better?

Floating is good for floors that won't get "wet" or have dew on the ground. Basements are examples of floors that can't use floating technique to install hardwood. But the floating method is convenient and not much gluing and is easier to remove if something's wrong.

As for "glue down" method, it's good for places like basements, where it will hold even if there is some water dripping on it. I use the glue don method, because I tried the floating method, and when i spilled something, the flooring would lift off the ground and ruin it. So I recommend glue down method, just to be safe of spills. Good luck!

I currently have a parquet floor and am going to be selling my condo in about a year or so. I was wondering if I could install a floating linoleum hardwood floor (the inexpensive kind) on top of the parquet. I have estimated that it wouldn't be that much more costly than sanding the parquet floor and would look much more nicer and cleaner. Any suggestions? I've gotten mixed answers so far. Does anyone really know?
It's a floating laminate floor (not real wood well, just pieces of wood glued together, just looks good)

from your description of what you want to cover the parquet with, it would have been better described as 'laminated flooring' instead of 'linoleum'. Lino, usually refers to the rolls of vinyl flooring, like Armstrong, or Congoleum.

"Floating" floor.. refers to how the new flooring is put down. A "floating" floor, is glued, (or in some cases, snapped) together, without nailing, or glueing it to the floor underneath. The pieces are glued together, not to the floor below. So.. the whole thing 'floats' on top of the original floor…it is not 'nailed down', or 'glued down'.

YES!! you can do this! As long as your parquet floor is fairly level (no large humps, etc) you will have no trouble at all. If you buy the kind of laminate flooring that snaps together, you wont even need glue. If you do use the type that glues together, simply keep a damp rag handy, to wipe up any excess glue that squeezes up out of the joint.

You want to leave a small gap, around the outer walls, which you can cover with trim…this allows for the seasonal expansion of the laminated floor. (note, when nailing the trim in place, nail it to the wall, not the floor )

One of the answers above mentioned a foam backing on the new product…. some laminated flooring does come with a foam backing already on it. Tho, it is more common to see the type without a backing. You DO need to get a backing, to put down, if the new product comes without it. It comes in rolls, not too wide, and easy to handle… just roll it out on your old floor, and tape the seams together (duct tape works well) This foam, or in some cases, felt, backing allows the 'floating' floor, to expand and contract seasonally, more easily. It also helps eliminate some squeeks of the new product rubbing against the old.

This is a project that can be done by yourself, if you have a miter saw, to cut the pieces to length….if you feel the slightest discomfort about doing the project yourself, talk to the store you are buying the new flooring from, most will arrange for installation.