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I can't find any information on this career, is there a school that teaches you?

Any GC can do that. Most any can.
A GC is a General Contractor. Pay some fees, take a course, pay more fees, take an exam, pay more fees get a license. Pay fees to get insured, pay more fees to keep license updated, and so on.

This is for a small bedroom/office which has old linoleum. Can i just place a pad down and install the wood floor?

I agree that for diy'ers a laminate wood floor would be much easier, less expensive and less maintenance. This type of flooring is rapidly improving. New click and lock systems go together much easier than some in years past. I recently installed a display room floor with the latest gimmick, which had the pad already glued to the bottom of each piece. Yes remember to stagger butt seams by starting 1st or 2nd row with a half piece.You may not want to start with a full or half piece if it means your finisher would be very small (you wouldn't want a finisher less than 6 or 8 inches unless you had to). This is a floating system and not nailed or glued, so be sure to leave a 1/4" gap around the edges to allow for expansion during times of high humidity. Make some 1/4"spacers(remove when finished).This will help you stay square. These boards are wide and a small room should take you 3 or 4 hours considering you will have some baseboard removal and replacement work. It may also require a jab or pull saw to cut the bottoms of your door jambs to enable each piece to slide under the jambs. Hey if your gonna do it, do it right and have fun!

I just bought a house.I thought I got a great deal.I could see lots of potential for this fixer upper.I could imagine how beautiful the living room would look with hardwood flooring.so we removed ratty old carpet, and the floor underneath has dips and pot holes.I am heart broken. Is there any way to even out the exisiting floor without replacing the whole thing?Or am i going to have to replace it with more yucky carpet?

First thing is to determine why there are dips and potholes. You may need to replace some of the support beams underneath. You can always put underlayment on what is there but, if there is a support problem, you will only cover an exiting problem and it will surface again later. You may end up ripping out the existing subfloor and replacing it. Definitly check for termite damage.


yup


The manufacturer of your engineered product will advise you as to whether it should float or be glued. It is unlikely they will recommend nailing it. My guess is they will tell you to float it. Engineered flooring is an epoxy product that locks together when you install it. Once you have enough down, the product becomes very stable and will not move but several strips by themselves will slide all over the place. We just installed such a product. Follow the directions carefully and you should not have any problem. Make sure the subfloor if sound and flat.

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I just bought a home without a basement. The home is built on a concrete slab, therefore all of the floors are concrete. Is it possible to install wood floors over the concrete? If so, what are the pros and cons of this? I would appreciate any insight you may have on this or any stories of experience. Thank you!

Yes, make sure your floors are level if they aren't they make a self leveling compound. Once this is finished make sure you use a moisture barrier over the concrete and then install the planks.
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http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=categorySelect&category=Project%20Planning&Ne=10000&N=0
…………….Self Leveling Compound
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This is enough moisture barrier to do at least one room and then some………
Lowes
Columbia Flooring
6-Mil Plastic Moisture Barrier
Item #: 236501 Model: FOM500
$53.57 ( 200 sq. ft. roll 48"W x 100'L)
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=236501-48182-FOM500&lpage=none

EDITED: I don't think I would varnish the underside of the wood planks it might interfere with your warranty plus wood also has to breathe thats why you need the moisture barrier.

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